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Articles and Media Features

Bugaboos to Rogers Pass Grand Ski Traverse

In April 2009 British Mountain Guide Owen Samuel allong with his wife Rocio Siemens and a few friends skied from the Bugaboos to Rogers pass (130km). This is what the Canadians call a Grand Traverse. The 'Bugs 2 Rogers' is situated in the Purcell and Selkirk mountains. A chain of 2000m to 3000m peaks. These mountains make up the southern portion of the Columbia range. This massif runs from just north of the US boarder up the east side of British Columbia...

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Silent Vinson, Antarctica

On the 2nd January 2009 Japanese Climber, Yasayuki Okobu, became the first deaf person to climb Mount Vinson in Antarctica. His Guide was BMG aspirant Rob Jarvis who takes up the story in Southern Patagonia waiting for a flight South on to the Ice.

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Discovering Sikkim

British and Swiss mountain guides lead an international expedition to Sikkim, October 2008.

...A good first day was had passing Rogers high point of 2006. Climbing through rock bands gave the most challenging pitches with moves up UIAA 4+. Heavy bags increased difficulties though they were not sustained. We continued to a fine snow platform just under the ridge at around 5800m...

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“Oh, are you still here?” A bagmans view of the Eigerwand

September 11, 2007: Despite the fact that none of the routes up the mountain were actually "open", BMG member Mark Seaton and his client Charles Sherwood climbed the notorious North Face of the Eiger, becoming only the second British guided party to do so. By descending the South Ridge, Seaton & Sherwood also completed the traverse, a first for a British guided party.

Here is Sherwood's account of the rather gripping adventure. More photos of the Eiger climb.

Electronics in the Mountains

Electronic devices like GPS and Satellite phones are becoming more and more useful in the mountains, guide Bruce Goodlad has a look at whats available for Climber Magazine

Electronics.pdf 1.27 MB

Climbing in the Sierra Nevada

Guide Bruce Goodlad writing about climbing in the Sierra nevada in California for Climber magazine. The Range of Light as it is known is a truly amazing place to go alpine rock climbing.