BMG Alpine Test
Andy Nelson on the Petite Dent De Vesivi
Last week was the alpine assesment for the British Mountain guides. The course examines all aspects of the work of a Mountain Guide and is combined with a two year aspirancy period where aspirant guides have to work alongside a fully qualified guide completing a logbook to document their experience.
The course met in St Gervais on the evening of Saturday 3rd September to discuss the plan for the week with a mixed forecast for the first few days it was decided to use the Aiguille du Midi lift on Sunday morning to gain some height.
The team met at the midi on Sunday morning and split into two teams the day was pretty damp with rain and snow showers. After descending the midi arete the team located a suitable crevasse where the candidates were tested in all aspects of crevasse rescue. This was followed by an ascent of the Cosmiques arete. With an improving forecast it was decided to head to the Grand Mountet hut above Zinal for the next few days, the walk in was carried out in waterproofs but the weather improved through the night to dawn clear on Tuesday morning. Both teams headed for the Besso Blanc du Moming Traverse a superb rock ridge which was climbed under clear skies. Wednesday looked good again so both teams headed for the North Ridge of the Zinal Rothorn. The team were defeated by strong winds at just over 4000m they then returned to the hut to regroup before heading to the Mamouth a granite ridge close to the hut. Both teams selected appropriate gradeV rock climbs where their ability to climb in big boots was tested before a traverse of the ridge.
Thursday dawned a bit overcast swapping assesors both teams headed for the Trifthorn, this gave the opportunity to look at navigation and protection on complicated glacial terrain then some steep snow techniques led to a windy summit. After a brief stop at the hut the team descended to the valley and relocated to the Val d'Herens for the night. The final day was spent traversing the Petit Dent de Vesivi followed by final debreifs and results.
The candidates are all to be congratulated on their efforts and enthusiasm throughout the week
