British Mountain Guide takes Patagonia by storm
Tim and Matt with Fitzroy behind them - after their successful ascent
British Mountain Guide Tim Neill summits a rare handful of routes, despite a typically stormy season in Patagonia.
Tim Neill, and climbing partner Matt Stygall have just returned from a succesful trip to Patagonia - proving that the Brits are up there with the best. Despite the fact that they only had 3 days of good weather in a month, Tim and Matt climbed through some shocking conditions; earning quite a reputation as the "Mad Welshys"; and claiming more sought after routes than any other team this season.
Tim put their success down to months of training, exceptional psyche - and an accurate internet forecast!
"We kicked off with a quick dash up Cerro Poincenot via the classic Whillans/Cochrane route in very cold and windy weather. The route was well iced and gave great ice and mixed climbing to the top, plus our first view of the Patagonian Ice Cap, the Torres and of course Fitzroy next door."
"Only a couple of days later there was a good 48 hr window of light winds and clear skies, so back up to our snow hole for a tussle with Fitzroy (3441m). We climbed the Franco-Argentine route, normally a rock route (650m; 6a+, 6c/A1), mostly in crampons except for a few pitches in the middle. The conditions forced all other teams to bail, hoping for better conditions the next day. We stopped just below the summit for a cold character testing night with just our belay parkas, then warmed up in the morning sun on the summit of Fitzroy. Without a breath of wind or a cloud in the sky and with all of Patagonia below us, the situation was pretty mental. We started abseiling past maybe ten or so teams on their way up, only one of which summited, due to deteriorating weather."
"After a bit of 'r and r' and sport climbing in Chalten, we sneaked up Cerro St. Exupery via the 800m 'Buscaini' route on its sheltered east facing corners. The weather had threatened all morning and broke big time on the summit making the descent and walk out (with a waist deep river crossing) pretty stimulating!"
"We also summited Aguja Guillaumet via its Amy couloir/Brenner ridge combo in a mad 3.5 hr dash during a 3 hr lull in the snow and wind. The day before leaving we climbed 'Benetier's' on Cerro Mocho. It's a 500m Piola rock route with great cracks up to E2, that conveniently clears quickly of snow, making it a popular objective in small weather windows or if you have a bus to catch!"
Whilst others floundered in the usual Patgonian weather, the brits came home with five summits in the bag - vowing to return as soon as possible. Meanwhile, they are back to work - in the relatively calm winter mountains of Scotland!
With a host of routes from around the world under his belt, Matt is definitely "one to watch" for the future - as he gains enough experience to join the British Mountain Guides training scheme
