Future Guides climb futuristic routes in Scotland
Andy Nelson on-sights grade IX
BMG Trainee, Andy Nelson has bagged a significant first winter ascent in Glencoe
Trainee British Guide, Andy Nelson (along with local activist, Donald King) has made the first winter ascent of Satyr in Coire nan Lochan - Glencoe. A summer E1 5a, the route starts up the wall between Central Buttress and Central Buttress (original route). They followed the summer route in 4 pitches, and a tentative offering of IX 9 awaits confirmation.
Andy Nelson reports:
We found it significantly harder than "Unicorn", and in places pretty bold. I took a twenty footer out of the top groove before hopping back on to finish in fading light. We want this ascent to stand up as having been done with a clean ethic, so we went back today and reclimbed it ground up, with no falls which was harrowing knowing what's coming! If anything it seemed harder and more serious 2nd time around. I think the IX 9 grade is appropriate, but it is certainly not regular VIII 8 and I'd rather it was downgraded than someone got properly hurt...which is distinctly possible!
The team are truly willing to be corrected by subsequent ascentionists! Conditions up north have been every bit as good as elsewhere in the UK. Several other parties were in action in the corrie in perfect still, cloudless conditions, the buttresses well rimed but not too much ice in the classic gullies due to the deep freeze. Low altitude routes such as Number 6, Findlays Rise, Blue Riband, The Screen, however, are well formed and receiving traffic.
Looks like we're set for a great winter!
