Wild Winter Conditions in Wales
Chris Parkin climbs another new route on 'the ladders'
Winter has arrived in North Wales, and British Mountain Guides have already climbed new routes
It looks like we're in for another cracking season - with winter conditions on Snowdon for a couple of weeks now. Cold dry powder snow conditions suit the turfy nature of mixed climbing, as we await the formation of ice, so for now the Black ladders and Clogwyn Ddu are the number one choice.
British Mountain Guides Tim Neill and Chris Parkin (with Mark 'Baggy' Richards) got the season off to a flying start with the first ascent of "Gerlan heights", a new grade VI on the pillar to the left of Galipoli on the Black Ladders. The team then returned a couple of days later and climbed a new line right of Arctic Fox (VI-6). A very good, but bold first pitch, easier ground on 2nd pitch, an airy line on the 3rd pitch followed by 100m of easier climbing. Another fine addition to the cliff, and their second new route on the crag within the last 3 days. For anyone who has never climbed on 'the bladders', it is one of Wales' premier crags and a world class venue by any standards. With routes up to 350m long, and a crag that is over a kilometre wide, this imposing crag is a fine cocktail of rock, turf and vegetation. Perfect in winter.
On Monday, more British Guides were busy. Tim Neill and Phil Dowthwaite made a rare ascent of Passchendale Direct (VI) on the ladders. This awesome route deserves lots of repeats. Martin Chester and Graham McMahon revelled in the sought after winter climbing adventure that is Great Gully on Craig yr Ysfa. Thin ice conditions and bomber turf made for an enjoyable ascent of this 'Cold Climbs' classic.
Newly qualified Guide, Paul Warnock Guided two visitors from Lithuania up the Clogwyn y Person arete, reporting fantastic conditions in Cwm Glas. It seems that the uber classic ice formations of Cascade and Central Icefall are just days away now. The Trinity face on Snowdon is now in mint condition, and many ice routes in the Devil's Kitchen are getting climbed.
With so many Guides living and working in North Wales, just use the 'Guide Enquiries' facility at the top of this web page to get your slice of the action - unless they are all out climbing, that is!
