Articles and Media Features
Le boeuf rôti des montagnes
A short history of the Association of British Mountain Guides by BMG president, Roger Payne. The article was written in November 2011 for publication in the magazine of the French National Mountain Guides Association (SNGM)
BMG Summer Alpine Test 2011
After a long summer of aspirancy (during which I also managed to move house back to the UK) myself, Andy Nelson, Andy Townsend and Euan Whittaker met back in early Sep for the 6 day BMG Alpine Assessment. BMG guides Bruce Goodlad and Terry Ralphs convened the assessment....
Training with Chamonix PGHM
The PGHM (Peloton de Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne) run the full time professional mountain rescue team based in the Chamonix valley. They do the same in a variety of other areas in France such as the Massif des Écrins and the Vanoise national park. 12 BMG members went to their DZ (drop zone) in Les Praz for a Training Day on radio protocol and accident procedure. This short report helps to summarise some of the learning points from the day
Eiger North Face
The last few rays of an autumnal alpine sunset turned the summit ice fields of the Eiger to orange. Mike and I had been climbing for nearly 12 hours and were pleased and relieved to reach a decent bivi spot on the Mittellegi Ridge. The dusky panorama was stunning with the darkly silhouetted giants of the Oberland closest. A cold and stiff breeze blasted ice crystals into our faces and it was time to settle down for some soup and a solid 9 hours of shivering!
Ski Touring in Eastern Turkey
Report from 10 days ski touring and travel in Eastern Turkey, May 2011. The ski touring was on 3 peaks; Mount Artos (3556m); Suphan Dagi (4058m) and Mount Ararat (5137m)
Bugaboos to Rogers Pass Grand Ski Traverse
In April 2009 British Mountain Guide Owen Samuel allong with his wife Rocio Siemens and a few friends skied from the Bugaboos to Rogers pass (130km). This is what the Canadians call a Grand Traverse. The 'Bugs 2 Rogers' is situated in the Purcell and Selkirk mountains. A chain of 2000m to 3000m peaks. These mountains make up the southern portion of the Columbia range. This massif runs from just north of the US boarder up the east side of British Columbia...
Silent Vinson, Antarctica
On the 2nd January 2009 Japanese Climber, Yasayuki Okobu, became the first deaf person to climb Mount Vinson in Antarctica. His Guide was BMG aspirant Rob Jarvis who takes up the story in Southern Patagonia waiting for a flight South on to the Ice.
Discovering Sikkim
British and Swiss mountain guides lead an international expedition to Sikkim, October 2008.
...A good first day was had passing Rogers high point of 2006. Climbing through rock bands gave the most challenging pitches with moves up UIAA 4+. Heavy bags increased difficulties though they were not sustained. We continued to a fine snow platform just under the ridge at around 5800m...
“Oh, are you still here?” A bagmans view of the Eigerwand
September 11, 2007: Despite the fact that none of the routes up the mountain were actually "open", BMG member Mark Seaton and his client Charles Sherwood climbed the notorious North Face of the Eiger, becoming only the second British guided party to do so. By descending the South Ridge, Seaton & Sherwood also completed the traverse, a first for a British guided party.
Here is Sherwood's account of the rather gripping adventure. More photos of the Eiger climb.
Electronics in the Mountains
Electronic devices like GPS and Satellite phones are becoming more and more useful in the mountains, guide Bruce Goodlad has a look at whats available for Climber Magazine
Electronics.pdf 1.27 MB