Discovering Sikkim

Tom (a regular of Ibex Mountain Guides) and I had for a long time wanted to climb together in the Himalayas. A few plans had come and gone, Am Dablam, Shivling and others all showed promise but fizzled out. An exploratory trip to India’s north eastern state of Sikkim however became a reality. Roger Payne a fellow British Mountain Guide had been making mountaineering trips in to Sikkim for some years and was happy to share local knowledge and logistics. Tom and I would become part of an international expedition comprising 8 people. This group split in two; a team of 3 (2 Swiss guides Jean and Fabean and 1 American client Monica), Roger and his clients Claire and Simon and Tom and I.

On arriving in Gangtok the states capital city. We were pleasantly surprised at how developed the place was, with a typical Indian hustle and bustle. The advantage of climbing in North Sikkim, the 1st destination, was that it has road access to 4600m in just 1 ½ days from Gangtok. This is fantastically quick access meaning, even with acclimatisation, the travel time from the UK to base camp (3900m) can be just 4 days.Though it was by the road our base camp had a fantastic vista down the valley, through spars trees to snowy unclimbed peaks. Its proximity to the road also meant heavy luxurys were for once granted thus creating a most relaxing camp.

We wasted no time, Tom and I had been very impressed with the look of the east ridge of Brumkangshe (5635m). This was the peak we had a permit for though it was generally accepted that climbing other peaks in the area below 6000m would be happily unnoticed! We continued our acclimatisation with a load carry to the foot of the ridge that also gave a vantage point allowing us to look at and plan our route. Though it looked like there would be technical sections it appeared to be a going concern.

In the following days we made steady progress on to the ridge under fine blue skies. It was only when we had committed to making a cache of gear at the start of the difficulties some way above our advanced base camp that the weather took a major turn. Tom and I huddled in our micro tent that night as the snow fell to a depth of 15cm by morning. It was a tough decision weather to leave the cache and come back for it another day. At a risk losing it due to the potential of enormous amounts of snow and bad weather prevailing. Or to make a dash to retrieve it while we still could. We chose the latter and I decided that the fastest way was for me to solo back up the ridge to get the cache. Though this manoeuvre was uneventful it wasn’t pleasant with wind making it feel like a very Scottish experience. By the time I had got back the new snow depth was up to 20cm. We waited as long in to the day as we could before the weather forced a retreat back to base camp. The snow continued to fall and that night one of the tents collapsed under the additional load.

No rest for the wicked as the following morning the sun was out and the promise of good weather tempted us back up the hill. Due to the volume of snow it seemed prudent to leave the east ridge to settle for a while. It was decided that we would try and climb the glacier and short north ridge along side Roger and his team. This expedition was a 3 night affair with the main theme being trail braking. On the upper glacier we found that over 60cm of snow had fallen on to a previously unconsolidated snow pack. This made for extremely slow going as we took it in turns to make the trail. The shear volume of fresh snow increased the avalanche risk and though being on the glacier was an acceptable slope angle for safe progress. The north ridge was too steep to be safe. Luckily Brumkangshe north on the opposite side of the col had terrain witch made it possible to climb safely. And after 3 days of wading around in the powder we finally bagged a summit.

It had become obvious to us that anything that was not south facing was either going to have so much snow on it that it would be impossible to climb or that it would be too dangerous. This fact left us scratching our heads for a while. Eventually Roger and I came up with a plan to go in to the Rula Kang Glacier where it seemed like there might be the potential to climb more rocky peaks on a south facing aspect.

A days walk found us at a beautiful camping spot by a lake tucked under the foot of fine soaring peaks. One in particular caught Toms attention as the summit seemed so close, even though guarded by steep rock walls. Curiosity got the better of us and with only 4 hours of light left in the day we set off to ‘have a wee look see’. It transpired that an easy scrambling approach on its west flank lead to within 2 rock climbing pitches of the summit. These were despatched and as the sun started to dip towards the peaks of west Sikkim Tom and found our selves on the top of a virgin summit. Ever the romantic, Tom, with respect to his upcoming marriage chose to call the 5000m peak Changma Tebetan for Bride Peak!

The following day we had more ambitious plans. An early start was required for a crack at a fine looking rock pyramid well above the camp site. This required a long walk to the edge of one of the Chombu glaciers, a grand mountain dominating the skyline on the west flank of the Rula Kang. The imposing walls of this pyramid peak meant an easer route needed to be found if this mountain was to be climbed in a day. Luckily on inspection of the western ridge a reasonable route was found on a snow crest with some superb rock climbing sections. The narrow nature of the ridge gave tremendous exposure coupled with the most amazing views, Views enhanced by the knowledge that we were the only ones climbing in all land scape we could to see.

The experienced was well summed up by Claire shedding a few tears when she became the first person to stand on the summit of what later became Marpo Peak (5400m) meaning Red Peak. A feeling of snatched success after the difficulties presented by the snow fall, accompanied us on our return to Gangtok. In great sprits an evening of celibration was had quaffing many barrels of the local hooch Chang and dancing to local music. Surprisingly Chang a hot alcoholic drink made from fermented millet gave very little in the way of a hangover.

Only 3 weeks after arriving in India it was time for Tom to return to Norway and Simon and Claire to Britain. Though we arrived as 2 separate teams we had become cohesive. Roger and I would miss there company on the next phase of our Sikkim discovery. A further 2 weeks of less social but more challenging mountaineering in the west.

Roger had made an attempt on the south east ridge of Rathong (6679m) in west Sikkim in 2006 and this striking line still needed a first ascent. Without the issues of acclimatisation we were able to go non-stop to advanced base camp (5000m) in 5 days. With 4 days food and gas in our bags we got straight on with the climbing. A good first day was had passing Rogers high point of 2006. Climbing through rock bands gave the most challenging pitches with moves up UIAA 4+. Heavy bags increased difficulties though they were not sustained. We continued to a fine snow platform just under the ridge at around 5800m. This was comfortable and we were able to rehydrate, eat and sleep well enough to be ready for action the following day. We could hear the wind howling across the south face during the night but we were heading across the north east flank the next day we thought it would not be a problem.

We set off shortly after first light and began, moving together across steep snow slopes between rock bands. The key to reaching the upper ridge was the hope that a couloir would lead through to the foot of a large rock barrier and give us access to easier terrain on the south face. We soon found what we were looking for and were pleasantly surprised at the moderate difficulties encountered. Once on the south side of the ridge good progress was made pitching and moving together. It was only while passing a rock barrier on the far south side that the full force of the wind became apparent. While I belayed in an airy position Roger lead an exposed pitch of steep snow. As he took his time on the unprotected ground getting buffeted by the wind I found my self in a battle to stay warm. Once Roger had belayed I followed the pitch and it was only then that I found quite how cold I had become. With only an hours daylight we found an area of snow on the more sheltered side of the ridge to cut out a tent platform. After an hour of hard work we had made a platform only big enough for ¾’s of the tent. We got the tent up and manoeuvred our way inside. Though it was great to be out of the wind I only had snow supporting my upper body, my legs were basically hanging out over hundreds of meters of space between the tent floor and the glacier below. Needless to say it was not going to be a comfortable night. Roger from a better platform tended to the stove but had a battle against the wind to melt even the minimum volume of snow for drinks.

The wind battered the tent all night and what with the feeling that I might slip of my perch sleep was hard to come by. After a brief discussion we came to the conclusion that if the wind did not reduce we would have to go down. The ridge above looked to be more exposed to the wind and less endowed with rock for belays, not the sort of place to be climbing with the threat of being blown off. Not to mention the chilling effect we had already encountered.

Well in to daylight we broke camp and started our descent, not only with the sense of defeat but the knowledge that our return down the ridge would be far from easy. With the slimest of racks we would have to be sparing with what we left behind at the rappel anchors. Rappelling would be made particularly difficult by the weaving nature of the route. The risky practice of rappelling from a single nut backed up for the first person was used and we made surprisingly good progress. We were amazed at how reasonable it was of us to find good anchors and this made the 18 rappels necessary for the descent quick with only a few sections of down climbing. We were glad to make it all the way to ABC in a day. The mountain ridges all around us had been pluming all day and this at least helped us to feel our decision to descend had been correct.

One day ahead of schedule we made our way back to Gangtok. Disappointed but happy to have found such good climbing. This route would definitely be climbed and some day become a classic and enjoyable route for the mid grade Himalayan alpinist!

Owen Samuel