Training with Chamonix PGHM
PGHM rescue of an injured Skier in the Chamonix Valley. Photo: Bruce Goodlad
The PGHM (Peloton de Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne) run the full time professional mountain rescue team based in the Chamonix valley. They do the same in a variety of other areas in France such as the Massif des Écrins and the Vanoise national park. 12 BMG members went to their DZ (drop zone) in Les Praz for a Training Day on radio protocol and accident procedure. This short report helps to summarise some of the learning points from the day
We were introduced to Jeff Murcia who was running the session along with Alex and Laurent.
All three gave us various facts about the PGHM and its infrastructure.
- Typically on a rescue there will be two Securistes, one doctor, one pilot and one engineer.
- The helicopter has a maximum capacity of 11 people
- Helicopter costs €8 000 000 and €4000/hour to have in the air
- They have two helicopters, one is a blue eurocopter and one is from the Securite Civile which is yellow
- There are 40 PGHM Gendarmes in Chamonix Valley
- They have three avalanche rescue dogs, one always stays at base, even in summer
- Each Gendarme in the PGHM must do a minimum of one year training to be a Gendarme (policeman), plus a one year course to become a Securiste (rescuer)
- Some are guides beforehand and some become guides while working for the PGHM
Jeff started by showing us some of the basic kit they carry which includes kit in case of a night out after being dropped by the helicopter on a rescue.
Jeff and Alex went through the procedure on radio protocol. Using a radio pre programmed to use the three relays in the Chamonix valley, they explained that after pressing the red button to open the relays, you must wait until you hear three beeps before speaking (see attachment for explanation of relay system). They then said to wait to be told to change to PGHM mono once contact was established. If you are unable to speak we were told to press the talk button three times.
Following this they stressed to give them maximum information. As well as altitude, GPS co- ordinates, wind direction etc was to give information on the casualty such as injuries, level of consciousness, pulse rate etc. They stressed given the unique (compact) nature of the massif and quick response times that it was beneficial to take an extra minute or two gathering information before calling them out in a panic.
Preparation of Accident site was discussed, we were encouraged to build an independent belay on steep ground, in anticipation of the arrival of the Securiste.
Jeff encouraged us to attach a large sling to the belays central point, so even if it was not clipped, the secouriste could grab it. We were told it was essential to secure anything loose such as packs etc and to kneel down and cover client when helicopter coming in. On easier ground they said don't go to the helicopter, the Securiste will come to you.
In circumstances where the helicopter has limited time to hover near very steep ground, the securiste would usually come in on the winch cable, attach to the casualty and cut casualty from the belay, all very quickly! Some technical info was given on the cable, maximum load was 236kg and the cable was 90m long. Laurent (helicopter pilot) stressed that the main problem they have is weight in the helicopter and using fuel quickly.
Laurent showed us around the blue Eurocopter explaining that the pilot always sits on the right. Also was an explanation of flying at night and night rescues.
We also covered rescues specific to Avalanche accidents. Basics were explained such as not moving visual evidence e.g. poles sacks etc and to keep looking for anyone buried. With regard to dogs they stressed the importance of always being down wind so they don't mix your scent with the victims.
The day was invaluable and very informative. Thanks to Jeff, Alex and Laurent for their time.