The Guides Scheme
We are holding an open day in June 2008. More details on the news page or download More details and an application form here
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Training requirements for British Mountain Guides
The Guides' Training Scheme has been designed and developed so that the British Association of Mountain Guides can offer a thorough training and assessment in all disciplines associated with the international guiding profession.
The system meets the standards laid down by the European Guides Commission (EGC) and is ratified by the International Federation of Mountain Guiding Associations (IFMGA), formerly referred to as the Union Internationale des Associations de Guides de Montagne (UIAGM)
The BMG system has taken into account the unique British mountain environment and necessary associated skills.Completion of the British elements of the scheme enables members to be involved in the whole range of mountaineering work in Britain including other training and assessment schemes.
Completing the full BMG scheme and achieving the subsequent award of the International Mountain Guide qualification ensures that a British guide has parity of standards and benefits with other guides of member countries of the IFMGA.
IFMGA Charter for British Mountain Guides
We all recognise and adhere to the international Charter for the Mountain Guide.
Our reason for becoming a Mountain Guide can be derived from our appreciation of the beauty of the mountains, our acceptance of the risks entailed in mountaineering and the value we place on our partnership with other climbers.To achieve this a Mountain Guide needs to be clear-sighted, meticulous and demonstrate professional attitude, commitment and appearance.
We demonstrate our respect for the mountains by close co-operation with those who live and work there and with land management agencies.Our activities are carried out in a sensitive manner, in tune with the natural environment. Our acceptance of risk in the mountain environment presupposes alertness, prudence, self-knowledge, vigilance, current technical expertise and good equipment. The Guide offers loyalty to the contract with the client, aid to any climber in distress, the adoption of the highest safety standards, trust and a spirit of good fellowship toward all peoples, mountain regions and countries.
If you are committed to becoming a Guide, we welcome you and wish you success in this profession and invite you to contribute in time, to the reputation, organisation and success of the British Mountain Guides.
Pre-requirements and how to apply
In order to be considered for membership of the British Association of Mountain Guides, an applicant must meet the requirements listed below.Contact the BMG office to receive Guidance Notes for Applicants and an Application form (see contact page) or download here:
Guidance Notes for Applicants
Application Form
(Please note that the deadline for applications is the end of May each year)
1. Be at least 22 years of age.2. Submit the Association's medical form completed by a medical practitioner.
3. Provide details of mountaineering experience in the UK over a period of at least five years, which should be geographically extensive. In all cases these routes must be led or alternate led, and not soloed. include:
- At least 50 multi-pitch climbs led at El 5b or above in a wide variety of areas in the UK.Technical leads at E3 5c are recommended as this ensures that the applicant is consistent at E1 5b.
- A comprehensive list of at least 50 snow and ice climbs of Grade III and above, of which 20 must be at Grade V or above. Over 70% (thirty five) of these should be in the Scottish mountains in a variety of areas. Non-UK experience may also be taken into consideration e.g. ice grade 4 in France or Canada, but the majority of experience logged must be UK/Scottish.
- A general mountaineering history including hillwalking in the UK and Ireland, mountaineering and camping experience
4. Provide details of Alpine mountaineering experience over a minimum period of at least four years. This experience should show the following:
- Knowledge of several Alpine climbing areas, at least three of which should be European,
- Twenty ascents of major summits,
- A variety of experience including rock, snow/ice and mixed (mentioning any winter ascents).
- As a guideline, experience in the European Alps should include a minimum of twenty big routes, at least ten of which should be Alpine très difficile standard or above. Of these ten routes five should be at least 1000 metres in length and preferably mixed (i.e. classic North faces or similar).
- Greater ranges experience will be considered but the majority of routes and experience must be in the European Alps.
- Applicants must include the names of climbing partners on all significant ascents.
5. Provide details of skiing ability on and off-piste including a minimum of thirty listed days of ski-mountaineering experience in glaciated Alpine terrain. Fifteen days or more of the thirty listed days must be linked days consisting of at least three consecutive nights in huts on recognised tours. Ski touring and skiing expeditions outside of Europe will be considered but the majority of ski-touring experience must be in the European Alps. Applicants are expected to ski all pisted runs with good style and demonstrate good balance, posture and control whilst skiing linked-parallel turns of varying radius. Applicants should cope well in all off-piste conditions showing the ability to ski safely, effectively and in control.
6. The applicant must be currently operating at the standards mentioned in 3, 4, & 5.
7. Provide written references from at least two referees, one of whom must be a fully qualified Guide. The Guide must be able to vouch, at least in part, for the authenticity of the candidate's application and be prepared to help and advise him/her through the scheme as a mentor. The Training Officer/Training Committee can assign a guide as a referee if the applicant does not know a Guide. One referee must be able to attest to the candidate's good character.
8. Provide details of a current first aid certificate with a mountain component.
9. List any relevant qualifications held e.g. MIA, MIC etc.
10. Send an Application Fee to British Association of Mountain Guides (details of the cost are to be found in the Guidance Notes for Applicants available from the BMG office.)
11. Send a copy of your application form to both referees along with a pro forma for the referee to verify your application.
It is also recommended that the candidate obtain as much experience and observation of instructing as possible prior to entering the scheme.
Candidates should note that the pre-requirements are high to help ensure that those who embark on the scheme have the commitment, experience and technical ability required to complete the scheme successfully.
Summary of Training And Assessment Scheme
Registration
Registration takes place when the Association accepts the candidate's application. At this point the candidate becomes known as a BMG candidate.
Induction Courses
These provide an opportunity to discuss the level of training and assessment on future courses and consist of:
1. Rock Climbing Induction Course
(October, based in North Wales)A one-day formal rock climbing assessment in which candidates demonstrate an ability to climb at El 5b, a successful performance being a pre-requirement for the Summer Assessment. For non MIA applicants their will be a compulsory two-day extension for training in teaching rock climbing and improvised rescue. This is optional for MIA holders.
2. Ski Induction Course
(January, based on the Alps)A one-day ski induction course based in the Alps.
3. Ski Technique Course
(January, based on the Alps)A three-day instructional course following immediately after the ski induction day
4. Avalanche Course
(January, based in the Alps)Five days of training followed by one day of assessment looking at snowpack evaluation, avalanche risk assessment and terrain evaluation. This course will be run in an Alpine area in winter and is available once the applicant has finished the ski induction course.
5. Winter Induction Course
(March, based in Scotland)One day of winter climbing providing an opportunity for candidates to demonstrate their ability to climb at grade V. This will take place in Scotland. For non-MIC applicants their will be a compulsory two-day extension for training in winter skills and teaching. This is optional for MIC holders.
The induction courses may well be run in less than perfect conditions and candidates must be prepared for this.
Any candidate failing one or more of the induction courses will not be allowed to continue in the BMG training scheme. The Training Committee will decide whether a candidate will be given the opportunity to re-take all the induction courses again the following year.
All the induction courses should be completed before attending the Summer Training. However, if necessary, the Avalanche Course may be attended one year later at the discretion of the Training Committee.
BMG Registrants will be issued with log books which are to be filled in throughout all stages of the scheme with details of any guiding days completed and BMG course reports.
Summer Training
(May, based in the UK)
There are two components to this course:
Summer Training One
This consists of a three day courseSummer Training Two
This consists of a four day course
These training courses will cover all practical elements of the summer syllabus, run in the Lake District and North Wales. These courses will also include physical performance, injury avoidance, environment, leadership, coaching, professionalism, high altitude guiding and aspects of assessment techniques.
Summer Assesment
(September, based in North Wales)
Six days of assessment on the summer syllabus, based in North Wales.
On successful completion of all the Summer Assessment candidates will become known as Trainee Guides. Trainee Guides are members of the British Mountain Guides Association and pay a subscription
Winter Training/Scottish Avalanche Training
(January, based in Scotland)
Three days of training on the winter syllabus, covering client care and guiding techniques, based in Scotland.
Winter Assessment
(March based in Scotland)
Six days of assessment on the winter syllabus including personal climbing skills, guiding skills and client care.
Alpine Ski Training Course
(April, based in the Alps)
Five days training covering ski techniques for pisted and natural slopes, ski touring and guiding skills.
Alpine Summer Training
(June, based in the Alps)
Five days of training on the Alpine syllabus in the European Alps. The Aspirant carnet will be issued at the successful conclusion of this course.
Alpine Apprenticeship - first season
(summer, based in the Alps)
The alpine apprenticeship consists of a minimum of thirty quality guided days under the direct supervision of a guide who has been qualified for a minimum of three years. Prior to attendance on the Alpine Assessment course Aspirants should complete at least twenty of these days. The Alpine Assessment course can be attended at the end of the Aspirant s first alpine season (provided the Aspirant has completed enough days), Log book entries must be sent to the BMG office at the end of the season so that they can be reviewed by the Training Committee.
Alpine Assessment
(September, based in the Alps)
Six days assessment of Alpine guiding techniques in the European Alps.
Alpine Ski Apprenticeship
A minimum of fifteen days work experience, post training, with Guides who have been qualified for a minimum of three years. At least ten of these days must be on recognised ski tours and each tour must consist of at least three consecutive nights in huts.
Alpine Ski Mountaineering Assessment
(April/May, based in the Alps)
Six days on the ski-mountaineering syllabus with assessment of skiing standard and touring skills. This course will be run in an Alpine area.
Alpine Apprenticeship second season
(summer, based in the Alps)
The Aspirant must complete the required days to a minimum of thirty or to the number of days required by the Training Officer after the Alpine Assessment. The second year's apprenticeship is to be for a full summer, finishing at the end of August. Regardless of the number of aspirancy days completed in season one, in the second year's apprenticeship the Aspirant will be required to work for a minimum of ten aspirancy days.
Certification Seminar
(September, based in North Wales)
A one-day seminar to conclude the training and assessment scheme to include:
Insurance issues
Accident and complaints procedure
AGM and area meetings
Equivalence in France
Working as a newly-qualified guide
In-service training
In order to attend, Aspirants must have completed all aspects of the training scheme.
The total number of training and assessment days is 110.
In-Service Training.
A completion of two days in-service training every five years is mandatory for all Full Guides.
It is the responsibility of each qualified Guide to remain up to date with new techniques and developments. The BMG will run in-service training on a regular basis. Each Guide must complete a minimum of two days every five years on relevant subjects offered by the Association. It is the Guide's responsibility to seek advice and training in areas of work not covered by the BMG syllabus (e.g. Himalayan climbing, industrial rope-access work, canyoning, mountain first aid training courses) should they wish to offer their services in those areas.
Flow chart of Training & Assessment Scheme
