British Mountain Guides and alpinists Tim Blakemore and Mike ‘Twid’ Turner have climbed a significant new line on North Triple Peak in the Kichatna Range, Alaska.
The route was climbed alpine style involving icy, mixed climbing up to AI6 and a ‘typical’ Alaskan cornice to finish. Eponymously named “No Country for Old Men” it follows 18 long pitches rimaye to summit involving firstly an ephemeral smear then a cleaving couloir all the way to the summit.
“We climbed (and rappelled) the route in a continuous 24hr push. The weather was pretty bad throughout the whole trip so we knew we should take advantage of the small window when it appeared. The line is great and the climbing hard, sustained quality ice for 12 of the 18 pitches”. (6 initial pitches followed the established NW couloir to access the initial smear).
The weather had been difficult throughout the pair’s expedition with wind, cloud and rime ice adding atmosphere to the experience. They found generally stable ice and snow conditions in the range though were tent bound for much of the time.
This was Twid’s 10th expedition into the Kichatna Range which comprise of towering granite spires and peaks riven by couloirs (described by Twid as “the Patagonia of Alaska”).
“No Country for Old men” ED AI6 800m
With thanks to the Mount Everest Foundation, British Mountaineering Council, Alpine Club, DMM and Power Traveller