Le boeuf rôti des montagnes

The history of alpinism is a story with many remarkable first ascents by British climbers with local guides. Many were legendary partnerships, such as Mummery, Burgener and Venetz. In the era of their challenging first ascent of the Aiguille du Grépon in 1881, with the famous ‘Mummery Crack’, local mountain guides were also leading tourists in the mountains of Britain. The best known of these is John McKenzie from the Isle of Skye in Scotland, who in 1870 (then aged just 14) made the first ascent of Sgurr a’ Ghreadaith, which is one of the finest ridge climbs on the Cuillin of Skye. There is an altitude difference between the Chamonix Aiguille and the Cuillin of Skye, but the maritime climate and lack of fixed protection adds considerable character and adventure to summer and winter climbing in Britain, and perhaps explains why British climbers have been such prolific explorers of mountain ranges around the world.

Although the profession of mountain guide was established in Britain during the 1800s, it took some time for guide organizations to develop. Despite a history stretching back to 1857, the mountaineering clubs in Britain did not form a national body until 1944 with the creation of the British Mountaineering Council (BMC). In the 1950s the BMC and the Association of Scottish Climbing Clubs issued the first national diplomas for mountain guides in North Wales, the Lake District and the Highlands of Scotland. Then, during the 1950s and 60s, as participation in rock climbing and mountaineering grew, the first BMC Guides led an increasing number of courses in Britain and the Alps. The need was then recognized for an independent national association for mountain guides with a single scheme for guide training and assessment. In 1972 a group of BMC officials and Guides met to consider the future organization of mountain guides in Britain, and under the leadership of Ron James and KC Gordon set in motion a process that led to the formation in 1975 of the independent association of British Mountain Guides (BMG) with Bob Lewis as Secretary. It is perhaps no coincidence that during the same period UIAGM had been established, and the UK had become a member of the EEC, which in due course became the European Union.

The first leaders of BMG approached UIAGM to seek membership. The initial applications were rejected because of a lack of evidence of UK Government recognition. Nothing could be done about the absence of glaciers in Britain, but it was perhaps becoming more widely realized that in Britain climbing was an activity undertaken in all seasons and in all weather, and hence the British might have skills and knowledge that would make UIAGM a stronger organization. The BMG’s representatives at the time included Peter Boardman, John Brailsford and Colin Firth who had great credibility as leading climbers, experienced guides and able administrators. Then in 1977 a letter from the Minister for Sport confirmed the UK Government’s recognition of BMG, and so at the autumn meeting that year BMG became a member of UIAGM.

By 1984 there were just over 60 qualified British Mountain Guides, and in the autumn of that year BMG hosted the UIAGM General Council meeting in North Wales. By the mid 1980s many British Guides were season-long visitors to the Alps, with at least one member, Roger Baxter-Jones, permanently resident in Chamonix (tragically in 1985 Roger and his client were killed by serac fall on the North Face of the Triolet). Towards the end of the 1980s the four national mountain guide associations from EU States that were UIAGM members (France, Italy, Germany and UK) collaborated on a common platform for training mountain guides. This joint initiative was part of seeking recognition by the European Commission in the lead up to the 1992 EU Directive supporting the freedom of movement of workers. The platform document was signed for BMG by the late Fred Harper, BMG president at the time. Fred was then living in Chamonix, and one of the early BMG members to make the Alps his home.

Fred had a particular love for off-piste skiing and ski mountaineering, and had a long association with the Ski Club of Great Britain running many of their training and safety courses. At a time when the potential for ski guiding was not fully recognized, Fred gave encouragement to many aspiring British guides to develop their ski skills. Sadly, Fred’s life was curtailed by cancer in 2000. However, his support for BMG continues through the Fred Harper Memorial Trust, which generously sponsors the annual BMG ski technique course, which in recent years has been run by expert Swiss ski coaches in Leysin.

BMG preserved its origins with the national organizations for amateur climbers and mountaineers, and we continue to expect applicants for the BMG training scheme to have a very strong record of amateur experience on extreme British rock and winter climbs, plus challenging alpine ascents, extensive skiing, and experience of mountains further afield. We believe that this broad base of experience as an amateur is vital to develop the patience and understanding to lead clients and share their enjoyment as they achieve their mountain ambitions. We also feel that our British climbing traditions and interesting weather helps build a character of self-reliance and personal responsibility.

In 1995 a record eleven British Aspirant Guides received their diplomas, and BMG grew to more than 100 fully qualified guides. That number has grown slowly but steadily, and today there are 140 full guides in BMG. We feel lucky to be an association of this size, because we are big enough to have great competence and diversity, yet small enough that virtually all members know or have met each other. In 2009 the BMG website was relaunched with a new professional looking corporate identity. However, as an association we still function because of a very significant amount of voluntary effort. Currently BMG has a healthy balance sheet, and in 2011 agreed two new partnerships (with Arcteryx and WLGore). Hence, we are now able to reconsider our organizational structure and perhaps increase resources to manage the association and support the training scheme.

We have been very pleased to make contributions to specialist discussions in UIAGM, including work on the UIAGM Code of Professional Conduct that my predecessor Mac Mackay and previous Training Officer Richard Mansfield both contributed to during 2008, and the legal liability seminar hosted at ENSA in May 2009, which included a presentation by Peter Cliff a former President and current the Chairman of the BMG Professional Standards Committee. More recently we have also been able to contribute to UIAGM Working Group discussions on Risk Management, in particular encouraging recognition of the role of non-technical skills to increase success and avoid accidents. In 2011 I was pleased to be able to continue the very valuable work initiated by SNGM officers Alexis Mallon and Bruno Pellicier with the European Commission and the proposal for an EU-wide professional mobility card. This mutually beneficial cooperation and joint working between UIAGM members is highly valuable and a great strength.

Tim Walker is the next BMG President, and he and a team coordinated by former Training Officer Mark Diggins are very much looking forward to welcoming UIAGM members to Scotland for the autumn General Meeting in 2012. Also, the Hon Secretary Libby Peter and Treasurer Steve Monks are coordinating the international climbing competition, that will be hosted at the same time at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena, and they extend a very warm invitation to all UIAGM guides to participate in this event and enjoy our hospitality in Scotland.

In BMG we have always cherished the core values of UIAGM: the standard, reciprocation, and the family of mountain guide associations. These values are at the very heart of our passion for the mountains and the professionalism that is the foundation of the national mountain guide associations. We greatly value our international links, and the freedom we enjoy to pursue our guiding activities around the world. Hopefully all mountain guides recognize that famous resorts and popular itineraries can become very busy, and understand that there will be times when we all may need to be extra well organized, and exercise additional patience, caution and cooperation. We also share the concern to protect the mountain environment as a place for conservation, liberty and personal responsibility. All UIAGM guides are linked by history, passion and professionalism, and (to use the words of the late Peter Boardman) “...their company will enhance the experience of all those who wish to approach mountains and learn.”

Roger Payne qualified as a BMG guide in 1983. He was elected President in Dec 2008 and finished his term in office in Dec 2011. He has considerable experience of administration in mountaineering having been BMC National Officer (1989-95), BMC General Secretary (1995-2001) and UIAA Director of Sports and Development (2002-05). He has been on over 30 expeditions to difficult and remote peaks, and having just made 3 first ascents with guests in Sikkim, shares his passion for exploration. He has also been involved in mountain development initiatives with bodies such as AKRSP, UNEP and IUCN, and is currently helping with capacity development for local guides in Northeast India, and mountain rescue in Sikkim. He is also a member of the Swiss Mountain Guide Association and lives in Leysin with his wife Julie-Ann Clyma, who is also a UIAGM guide.